Minox 35 EL vs. GT vs. ML vs. GT-E - the Ultimate Guide

Anyone who knows me knows: the Minox 35 is one of my absolute favorite cameras. At Ausgeknipst, we design parts for dozens of camera systems. But to be honest, there’s one camera I always put in my bag when I’m out privately. It’s not a Leica or a Nikon. It’s my beaten-up Minox 35 GT (right in the picture).

Why? Because it’s engineering art in pocket format. In 1974, Minox (previously known for spy cameras) shocked the photography world: a full-frame 35mm camera smaller than many half-frame cameras, weighing just under 190g—almost half the weight and noticeably slimmer in the pocket than the already very popular Rollei 35. The great thing about the Minox 35 compared to the more popular Rollei 35 is: the lens retracts behind a flap when the camera is not in use, protecting it in your pocket, and because the body is made of glass-fiber reinforced Makrolon, it weighs almost nothing.

But: The Minox 35 could only be this small because it contains a lot of electronics for its time, which unfortunately also makes it quite prone to faults. Of the 100+ Minox 35 cameras that have passed through my hands since Ausgeknipst was founded, about 50% were broken (we could repair about 30% of those, since usually only the shutter magnet needs cleaning).

But that comes later; first you have to choose one, and this guide is meant to help you find the right model and keep it alive.

Part 1: The Minox family tree (Which one should I buy?)

There are countless variants, but we can roughly divide them into three families. Here’s an overview so you can find your way through the jungle of model names.

1. The classics (EL, GL, GT, PL)

These are the models with the typical sloping top body and the pointer in the viewfinder.

Minox 35 EL (1974): The original. Aperture priority (you choose aperture, camera chooses shutter speed). Historically important, but still technically raw (no backlight switch, no self-timer).

Minox 35 GL (1979): The update. Got a backlight switch ("2x") that doubles the exposure. Important feature!

Minox 35 GT (1981): The bestseller and my personal favorite. Has everything the GL has, plus a self-timer. The lens is the legendary Color-Minotar 35mm f/2.8. Sharp, high contrast, full of character.

Minox 35 PL (1982): The "Program" version. Fully automatic for people who don’t want to think about apertures. Great for snapshots, but less creative control.

Attention regarding power supply: These models originally ran on the PX27 mercury battery (5.6V). It is no longer available.

The solution: The Minox electronics work with a bridge circuit and are therefore relatively voltage tolerant. The modern 6V from four LR44 or SR44 button cells are electrically no problem. The essential part is the battery adapter (sleeve). The button cells are too small and without an adapter would not make contact and cause a short circuit. Our PX27 adapter holds the modern button cells, connects them correctly, and ensures your Minox reliably gets power again. Alternatively, you can use the more expensive Golden Power PX27, which has less capacity than the solution with four button cells and is often only available in specialty stores.

All info on batteries and manuals can be found here: Minox 35 Battery & Manual Overview

2. The "Automatics" (ML, MB)

From 1985, the design became a bit more angular ("brick shape").

Minox 35 ML: For many, the best model. It offers program automation AND shutter priority. Instead of a needle, there are LEDs in the viewfinder. It also has an "Exposure Lock" (meter memory) – extremely useful in difficult lighting.

Minox 35 MB: Basically an ML but without program automation. Only shutter priority.

Advantage of this series: They use the PX28 battery (6V) from the factory. Since this is harder to find nowadays than standard button cells, you need our PX28 adapter. This passive adapter acts as a sleeve to use four individual, inexpensive LR44 or SR44 button cells.

3. The Modern Ones (GT-E, GT-S, MDC)

At the end of the 80s, there was an update under the hood. The lens was now called "MC Minoxar" (multi-coated) and often had a built-in skylight filter.

Minox 35 GT-E (1988): Technically very advanced. Close focusing distance reduced to 70cm (instead of 90cm). More robust internal components (the GT-S is a modified GT-E with automatic DX code recognition).

Minox 35 MDC: The luxury version of the ML with a titanium-anodized aluminum body. More for the display case, but beautiful (also available as a collector's edition in gold-plated finish (see cover image).

Battery note: The models GT-E and GT-S have a modified battery compartment and use two CR 1/3 N lithium batteries from the factory (3V each = 6V). No adapter is needed here. The MDC (as an ML derivative) uses the PX28 and requires our PX28 adapter.

Part 2: Buying advice – The Minox ailments

If you see a used Minox 35 at a flea market or on eBay, you have to check two things. Otherwise, you’re buying electronic junk.

The "click" test (shutter)

The biggest problem with the Minox 35 is the shutter. If the camera sits unused for a long time, the magnets gum up or the electronics give out.

The test: Insert battery, cock the film advance, press the shutter release. You hear a "click." But: Open the back and look through the lens against the light. Do the blades really open? Often it clicks (the release magnet), but the shutter stays closed. We used to repair this often, but it’s fiddly.

DIY repair tip: For the technically skilled among you who want to clean the shutter magnet yourself, here’s the link to the video tutorial right here: YouTube video: Cleaning the shutter magnet.

The ISO dial of death

On many GTs and GLs, the labeling on the bottom of the ISO dial has simply worn off. You no longer know if you set ISO 100 or 400. It’s annoying but not a total loss.

The solution: We make a replacement plaque for the ISO dial, where the numbers are engraved, not just printed. Stick it on once and forget about it.

The lost battery cover

Classic. These things are tiny and missing on 30% of used cameras. Without the cover, there is no circuit. No circuit, no release. If yours is missing: We have replacement covers in our range, printed from conductive filament to ensure electrical contact.

 

Important operating instructions

Three details every Minox beginner should know before thinking their camera is broken:

• Double stroke film advance: The film advance lever on the Minox 35 must be operated twice to fully cock the shutter. After only one stroke, the camera will not release. This is not a defect but a design principle.
• Front cover = main switch: The electronics only get power when the front cover is 100% opened and locked. At 99%, the camera won’t fire. Make sure to open it until it clearly clicks into place.
• SR44 instead of LR44: If you use one of our adapters with button cells, be sure to use SR44 (silver oxide) instead of LR44 (alkaline). Alkaline cells continuously lose voltage, which eventually causes exposure errors on the Minox due to lack of real voltage regulation. SR44 cells keep the voltage constant at 1.55V until the end.

Part 3: How to take better pictures (Zone Focus!)

The Minox 35 is not a point & shoot with autofocus (except the ugly late AF models we don’t talk about here). It has zone focus.

You have to estimate the distance. Sounds scary? It’s not.

• At f/8 and set to 3 meters, almost everything from 2m to 5m is sharp.
• For landscapes: infinity.
• For street: f/8, pre-focus at 3 meters ("snap focus") and just shoot when the subject is in the zone.

Since the shutter is almost silent, the Minox is the ultimate ninja camera for street photography.

Our conclusion & Vladi’s recommendation

Do you still need a Minox 35 today? Yes. There’s hardly any camera that delivers so much image quality per cubic centimeter. My best photos were taken with the Minox 35 GT, simply because I always had it with me when the big SLR was too heavy.

My recommendation for buyers:

Best value for money: The Minox 35 GT. Best balance of features and availability.

The pro tip (upgrades): The Minox 35 GT-E or the MDC. The GT-E offers the best optical and technical upgrades (MC lens, 0.7m close focusing distance). The MDC is the only one with a titanium-anodized aluminum body – an indestructible collector’s item (but expensive!). The ML does have LEDs in the viewfinder but isn’t necessarily better quality than a well-preserved GT.

If you need accessories to get your flea market find back in shape, feel free to visit our shop. We specialize in keeping these legends alive.

Good light! Your Vladi

Useful links from the article:

• PX27 battery adapter (for EL, GL, GT, PL)
• PX28 adapter (for ML, MB, MDC)
• ISO dial replacement label
• Replacement battery cover
• Filter adapter (to use filters)
• Lens hood