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Fits all 35mm SLR cameras. 414 compatible models from 26 manufacturers – Canon, Nikon, Minolta, Olympus, Pentax, Yashica, and many more. One set, one solution.
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Complete tool set for DIY replacement. Self-adhesive sealing strips in 4 widths, mirror damper, tweezers with scraper, cotton swabs, masking tape, and illustrated instructions. You only need isopropanol.
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Material for 2–3 cameras instead of just one. Universal strips to cut – more robust and flexible than model-specific laser cuts that tear when inserted into narrow grooves.
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Mirror stop damper included. The often forgotten wear part: Without a functioning damper, the mirror slams hard with every release, causing vibrations that reduce sharpness.
Video tutorial: Replace light seals in 30 minutes
In our video, we show the complete replacement step by step on a Pentax ME Super – the method works identically for Canon AE-1, Olympus OM-1, Minolta SRT, and all other 35mm SLRs.
Watch video: How to change light seals on a 35mm SLR (DE subtitles) →
You can find the detailed step-by-step guide with photos in our blog article: How to replace the light seals of your analog camera →
Scope of delivery
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For 1–2 cameras: Light-sealing strips (self-adhesive, 4 widths), mirror stop damper, tweezers with scraper, cotton swabs, masking tape, instructions (DE/EN)
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For 2–3 cameras: Double amount of sealing material + mirror stop damper
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With film window seal: Like "For 1–2 cameras" + additional seal for the film window (Leica R, Contax, Ricoh)
Why universal instead of pre-cut?
Model-specific laser cuts sound precise but have practical drawbacks: The 1 mm thin strips for the back cover edge tear when inserted into the narrow groove. If one strip is damaged, the entire kit is wasted. Universal strips are more durable, can be flexibly wrapped around any bend of the back cover, and provide enough material for 2–3 cameras – instead of just one.
Technical specifications
- Material: Special light-sealing foam (self-adhesive)
- Widths: 1 mm, 1.5 mm, 2 mm, 3 mm strips
- Type: Universal strips (cut to the required length)
- Quantity: Enough for about 2–3 cameras
Description
Almost every analog camera from the 60s to the 80s has the same problem: The original sealing foam deteriorates after 20–40 years into a sticky, crumbly mess. The consequences are twofold: Light seeps through the leaky spots onto the film, causing bright streaks or spots on your shots. At the same time, the sticky residue gets into the mechanics – on the mirror, the shutter curtain, the film guide.
The vast majority of cameras available on the used market are sold with defective light seals. If the seller doesn’t explicitly mention it, you can assume the seals need to be replaced. This set contains everything for a DIY replacement – the only extra item you need is isopropanol from the pharmacy.
Typical concerns – and our answers
“I’m not handy – can I do this myself?”
Yes. The replacement requires patience but no craftsmanship skills. We have sealed hundreds of cameras in our workshop and documented the method so that even beginners can do it on a quiet afternoon. Our step-by-step guide with photos and the accompanying video show every step.
“The self-adhesive strips stick to the tweezers instead of the groove”
This is the most common frustration point. Two solutions: First, only peel off the protective film in 2–3 cm sections, not all at once. Second, the isopropanol trick from our community: Slightly moisten the adhesive side with isopropanol. The adhesive loses its stickiness for 1–2 minutes, allowing you to position the strip stress-free – once the alcohol evaporates, it sticks firmly.
“I can’t get the strip into the very narrow grooves”
Alternative without adhesive: Just leave the protective film completely on and press the strip without adhesive into the groove. The friction in the tight groove holds the foam reliably in place. Several customers and we ourselves have been using this method for years without problems.
“Do I really need a new mirror damper? Mine still looks okay”
If the damper is even slightly crumbly: Yes. Without a functioning damper, the mirror slams hard against the upper stop every time you release the shutter. This causes noticeable vibrations during long exposures and accelerates wear on the mirror mechanism. Also, foam crumbs end up directly on the focusing screen and mirror.
Practical tips
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Remove the back cover: On most 35mm SLRs (Canon AE-1, Olympus OM-1, Pentax ME), the back cover can be removed without tools by pulling on the hinge pin. Working on a loose door is much easier.
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Protect the shutter: Before working, cover the shutter curtain with painter's tape. The curtain is extremely thin – never touch it with tools or fingers.
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Avoid film counter opening: On the back cover (usually top right) there is a small opening for the film counter reset. No isopropanol or sealing material should enter here.
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Focusing screen: No alcohol. Isopropanol permanently damages the focusing screen. When replacing the mirror damper, place a cut Post-It over the mirror and focusing screen to catch debris.
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Final cleaning: Clean the outside of the body with a slightly damp microfiber cloth and a drop of dish soap. Avoid water in body crevices.
Compatibility
Fits all analog 35mm single-lens reflex cameras (SLR) with standard sealing grooves. The most common models:
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Canon: AE-1, AE-1 Program, A-1, AT-1, AV-1, F-1, FTb, EF, TX, TLb, EX Auto
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Nikon: FM, FM2, FM2n, FE, FE2, FA, FG, FG-20, EM, F2, F3, Nikkormat FTn/FT2/EL
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Minolta: SRT 101/102/303, X-700, X-500, X-300, X-370, X-570, XD-7, XG-1, XG-2, XG-M, XG-9
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Olympus: OM-1, OM-1n, OM-2, OM-2n, OM-2SP, OM-3, OM-4, OM-10, OM-20, OM-30, OM-40
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Pentax: K1000, ME, ME Super, MX, MV, MG, KM, KX, K2, Spotmatic, LX, Super A, P30
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Yashica: FR, FR-I, FR-II, FX-3, FX-3 Super 2000, FX-7, FX-D, TL Electro, Electro AX
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Contax: RTS, RTS II, 137 MA, 137 MD, 139 Quartz, 159 MM, S2, ST, Aria, RX
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Ricoh: XR-7, XR-P, KR-5, KR-5 Super, KR-10, XR-500, XR-2, TLS 401
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Konica: Autoreflex T3, T4, TC, FS-1, FC-1, FT-1, Acom-1, TC-X
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Praktica: MTL 3, MTL 5, MTL 5B, B200, BCA, BC1, BX20, Super TL, LLC, VLC
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Fujica: ST605, ST605n, ST701, ST705, ST801, STX-1, STX-2, AX-5
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Chinon: CE-4, CE-5, CM-3, CM-4, CM-5, CM-7, CP-7
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Cosina: CT-1, CT-1 Super, CT-1A, CT-7, CT-10, CT-20
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Mamiya: MSX 500, DSX 1000, ZE, ZE-2, ZE-X, ZM
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Petri: FT, FT II, FT EE, FTE, FA-1, MF-1, GX-1
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Topcon: RE Super, Super D, Unirex, IC-1 Auto
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Miranda: Sensorex, Sensorex II, Sensorex EE, dx-3, RE-II
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Rollei: SL35, SL35M, SL35E, SL35ME
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Vivitar: V3800N, V4000, 220/SL, 450/SLD
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Zenit: E, EM, ET, TTL, 11, 12, 122
Also fits many rangefinder cameras, TLRs, and point-and-shoot cameras with back cover seals. If your camera has a foam seal in the back cover, this set will work.
Compatible Cameras
Our universal light seal set fits all analog 35mm cameras with foam seals. View the complete list: 414 models from 26 manufacturers
